Dec 012009
 

Every conscientious animal lover wrestles with the question: what is the best, happiest, longest, richest life for an animal? Parents, zoos, Disney, rehabilitators, rescue groups, and July09PlaygroundTrip002animal rights organizations have relentlessly asserted that, “Animals belong in the wild; nature is beautiful, peaceful, and good; captivity is bad; if you love animals, leave them alone; animals are happier in the wild than in captivity; animals need freedom to be happy; if an animal ‘must’ be in captivity, the highest goal is to recreate a wild life as faithfully as possible.”

Animal lovers should set aside such propaganda and honestly examine this issue and decide for themselves what is truly best for each animal. While a “natural” existence is one possible life, in many cases humans can provide a better life for an animal in our world than it could enjoy in the wild: not merely an acceptable alternative, but a better life.  Recreating nature should not be our objective: nature is brutal and unforgiving, and most wild animals live harsh, brief lives fraught with danger, hardship, and pain. Long ago man came in from the wild, sacrificing some theoretical freedoms for safety and comfort in a civilized world. Almost immediately, animals began following us, and most animals if given a choice will elect to live with man rather than in the wild.

If a person cannot provide for an animal a life that equals or surpasses the life it would live in the wild, then he should not commit to possessing the animal. The only intrinsic difference between a wild animal and a pet is that the pet has a caring, competent person dedicated to tending to its every need.  Keeping most animals in an authentically “natural” way – even if such a thing were possible – would be neglectful, abusive, and unconscionable. We can and must do better than “the wild.”

Furthermore, because man has overrun the entire planet, “the wild” is essentially a thing of the past, a haunted memory.  There are grievously few authentically wild places left on the globe, and many species are near extinction for the simple reason that there is no wild place left for them to live.

We should carefully study natural existence as a starting point from which we create optimal lives for our pets. We must set aside human preferences and rigorously evaluate every decision from the animal’s perspective.  We may like cleanliness, but pig will rarely prefer a clean enclosure.  We may like bright colors and lights, but many animals do not.  We may like fluffy fabric beds, but furred animals may not care about texture and would prefer a material that is cooler and cannot harbor parasites. We may like the notion of an animal lounging comfortably in an huge meadow, but the animal might prefer to be in a small cave. What is ideal for one animal might be miserable for another. Forget about what you like, or what you think will look good to your friends, and focus on what is truly best for the individual.

Two primary arenas demand our attention in animal care: the physiological and the psychological.

Ensuring excellent physiological care is relatively straightforward: wild animals are inundated with fleas, ticks, intestinal worms, heartworms, flies, mosquitoes, and other parasites from which our pets should be kept free. Wild animals spend much of their life without enough food or water, or drinking brackish filthy water; our pets should have clean, fresh water at all times along with high quality balanced meals and vitamins, supplements, and treats to ensure maximal health. Wild animals are shot, poisoned, leg-trapped, and struck by vehicles. They are under constant stress and are held captive by geographic boundaries or other animals’ ranges. They are hunted and killed by animals of other species and regularly dominated or attacked by members of their own species in territorial or mating disputes; our pets should have ample space without threat of predation or injury and appropriate companionship. Wild animals are uncomfortably cold and wet or hot most of the time; our pets should be kept close to an ideal temperature at all times, and have access to dry clean bedding and shelter. Wild animals are unvaccinated against even the most common diseases and their injuries and illnesses go untreated and are often agonizing and eventually fatal; our pets should be given excellent preventive care, any injury treated immediately, any pain carefully managed, and as appropriate they should receive massage, chiropractic adjustments, homeopathy, acupuncture, etc. Our pets should receive well-planned exercise and regular grooming. Consequently they live an average of two to three times longer than their wild counterparts, and for much more of their lives they should be healthy, robust, and comfortable.IMG_2049

For some animals, particularly some fish, reptiles, and amphibians, meeting all of their physiological requirements may suffice to ensure an excellent life, but for many animals it is every bit as important to consider their psychological welfare. Our pets’ psychological needs are often subtle, and meeting them requires thought and careful observation. Recently I had the pleasure of visiting an excellent wolf facility with fabulous enclosures: acre upon acre of beautiful and natural space, regular natural food, wolves in pairs with virtually all of their requirements met.  They were free to lounge where they wanted, had virtually no demands made upon them, and had hardly any stress in their lives.  At first blush, it seemed excellent.  Yet I found myself feeling profoundly sad as I walked around and looked at the animals. They had not found a home in man’s world; they were captive wild animals, caught between two worlds, living in extremely nice cages. Our host carefully explained that these were not pets, but I found myself wondering, “Why not?”  Why not welcome them into our world and cherish them and give them the very best of both worlds? Their lives seemed empty: comfortable and safe, but with little purpose, little joy. (I was only there for a few minutes, and they may have great lives at other times; I am not commenting on their existence, only on my “feelings…”)

Driving home, I thought at length about why those animals’ lives did not seem rich to me, and I kept returning to the same notion: for millennia, canids have spent much of their time struggling: hunting, searching for water, digging a den, trying to cross a river, courting a mate. Their bodies, their minds, their endocrine systems, even their “spirits,” have evolved in the fire of struggle, and their health, fitness, and happiness are all linked to meeting and overcoming challenges.

When we take care of an animal, we remove danger and challenge in its life, but in doing so we risk removing most of the joy that comes from accomplishment.  This may sound a little anthropomorphic—that animals would share our sense of joy at having achieved goals. But if you carefully observe an animal for a protracted period, it seems clear that they relish accomplishment.  Solving a puzzle to get food, chewing through something large, dragging a log up a bank, catching a fly, digging a hole, winning a wrestling match – these are favorite activities of most canids. If you have ever watched a goat or a squirrel eating, you may have observed that they will often forgo easy food in preference for identical food that is more challenging to acquire.

Truly excellent animal care balances comfort and safety with challenges, obstacles, and activities that fulfill the animal’s nature, preclude boredom, promote exercise, and develop confidence. Be creative, and think about what would genuinely stimulate your animal.

Here are a few suggestions. Not all of them will fit your circumstances, but hopefully they will get you thinking about how to enrich your animal’s life:

First, some general concepts to remember:

  • Safety: observe anything you give and make sure it is safe and does not overly stress your animal. Anticipate any way he could ingest, get stuck, fall, etc.
  • Change: anything new and different is enriching.
  • Response contingency: one of the best things your animal can learn is that he can influence the environment to cause a desired outcome. This decreases stress and increases learning in new situations as well as decreasing boredom!
  • Stress: too much stress can be bad, but that does not mean all stress is. Fear and stress at reasonable levels are natural and healthy.
  • Problem solving: many of these ideas are based on this notion.  Create a problem and a motivation to solve that problem, and you have enriched their day.
  • Physical challenges: resist the temptation to make life as easy as possible. The point here is to make things challenging.
  • Learning: grasping new concepts and new games, remembering tricks and outcomes, these actually develop new neural paths. This not only increases your animal’s knowledge, it increases his confidence and willingness to try new things and his capacity to experience the world.
  • Habit forming: everything you do is teaching habits and reinforcing behaviors, so consider what you are training with any new activity.

And here are some specific suggestions:

  • Training, Training, Training!!  You teaching new behaviors is the single greatest source of novelty!  Not just obedience, try freestyle or teach a few tricks.
  • Play.  Remember, play is a great stress reliever, so spend time each day consciously playing with your animal. Wrestle, play chase, etc.  If appropriate and safe, also let them play with other animals of their own and other species.
  • Varied feeding times, locations, and quantities.  Searching for and securing food is one of the primary activities of any wild canid. It is a good thing if your animal is hungry sometimes!
  • Kong stuffed with treats. (Stick a Nylabone in the end to make it last longer)
  • A fountain that sprays for five minute after animal presses a large button.July09PlaygroundTrip105
  • Chicken broth giant ice cubes–these can be given to the animal, or hung so they drip all day.
  • Buster cube or any object with food that comes out a hole.
  • Large hard Plaque attacker. (observe for the first few days make sure no large pieces are being removed and eaten)
  • New locations: rotate their enclosure, build separate play yards they can go into, take them to new places—beach, mall, mountains, car rides, etc.
  • Hanging tire.
  • Tug toy from a rope attached up high to a rubber spring or you play tug with them yourself.
  • Knuckle bones.
  • Wobble board or large ball on which you teach the animal to balance. (Great for proprioception)
  • Treadmill or underwater treadmill.
  • Loose crickets, mice, or rats. (assuming your stomach and ethics do not object)
  • Feeder fish in pool. (assuming your stomach and ethics do not object)
  • Container that has food inside.
  • Different surfaces– bark, sand, rock, grass, astro-turf, metal, tile, plastic, etc.
  • Button to press that plays a song.
  • An endless pool.
  • A wind chime hung high.
  • Some little mirrors or a disco-ball hung high that will make lights move around as they blow in the wind.
  • Tunnel.
  • A sprinkler or other water-spraying device, especially if the water moves.
  • Hang food where they cannot get to it, and give them a platform they can drag and climb on to get the food.  It is even ok if sometimes they cannot succeed. Failure and hunger are parts of a full life too.
  • Sounds– sometimes play stereo or TV, sometimes sounds of nature or dog shows.  Make a loud noise, put food next to it, and let them spend the day working up the courage to get near it.
  • Smells– sometimes spray a new cologne at the base of a tree or other object. Place in their pen a blanket from another animal.
  • Set up an aromatherapy infuser.
  • Water in which to play.
  • Visual barriers.
  • Boomer balls.Annie9weeksold128
  • An animal in an adjacent enclosure.
  • A slide with treats at the top.
  • A hole to dig in.
  • Nylabones slathered in cream cheese.
  • Do not feed in the morning and hide food around enclosure. (bury some and put some up high, etc.)
  • New foods- broccoli, bananas, beef, even hot peppers or other things they may dislike.
  • Big branches or old dead tree.
  • Beam or plank on which to walk.
  • Device that blows bubbles.
  • Massage or T-touch.
  • Big wooden box with various openings leading to food–some should have screw on lids, others sliding lids, others the food should be out of reach, etc.
  • Buy or build toys with sliding doors that have to be moved to get to food. (Like tic tac toe)
  • Build device that requires several steps to get food– pull one lever than go to other side of run and pull another and get treat.
  • Vertical levels– build platforms at different heights and with ramps and steps, hammocks, etc.
  • CHANGE– move stuff around, add stuff, take things out, etc.

Caring for any pet is a profound responsibility.  We must constantly, objectively, and without ego, defensiveness, or self-interest, examine the lives we provide for our animals.  We need to look at the whole picture and question whether the job we are doing is sufficient.  At the end of each day we need to evaluate that day from our animal’s perspective: Was it perfect?  Was it good enough?  Can I do better tomorrow? Did they get enough attention, ideal nutrition, optimal exercise? Were they lonely or bored?  Were their brains and hearts engaged?  Were they comfortable? Was their day better than it would have been in the wild?

Ask friends with differing experience and perspectives to visit your home and provide input on any areas in which your animals’ lives could be improved, and be open to their suggestions.

Some animals live in the wild. Nature and chance dictate the quality and duration of their lives.  Other animals live with us, filling our lives with wonder and joy, and it falls to us to ensure that those animals have lives that are not only safer, more comfortable and longer than they would be in the wild, but also richer and fuller.

July09PlaygroundTrip234

Note: As published in “Wolfdogs” magazine.

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 December 1, 2009  Posted by at 7:54 am
May 202009
 

In general, dogs should not be clipped in order to keep them cool. Logically and empirically, clipped dogs tend to be warmer in summer.  The canine coat is well designed to protect against environmental irritants and dirt, as well as shedding water and maintaining body temperature, and the whole system works so well that I see no reason to mess with it.  If it were too hot for my dogs I would alter the environment by moving or cooling or…  I tend to spend really hot days swimming in the pond or creek—cool everyone off, exercise everyone, and kill any parasites that are flourishing in the summer heat…

 

(If all you are interested in is the “answer”, stop reading here… )

 

However, the apocryphal logic commonly articulated is, in my opinion, erroneous.  Many people seem to believe that that the virtue of leaving the coat intact is its insulating value and/or dead air space.  This is not true—one does not want to insulate a hot canine body on a hot day. If you doubt this, here are a few examples: 

 

1.         Mammals in hot climates have evolved almost universally with far less undercoat.

 

2.         Mammals almost always shed out as much as possible of their undercoat in the warm months.

 

3.         Heat moves from higher area to lower. This process is slowed by insulation.  In most circumstances on our planet this means that heat is traveling from the dog outward.  Insulation will slow this process. 

 

4.         Next time it is really hot, go outside and get in a down sleeping bag.  Tell me if you think insulation helps you stay cool. Of course it is not a perfect parallel since our bodies cool somewhat differently from dogs, but it does illustrate the fundamental notion—heat dissipation is retarded by insulation!

 

5.         Go for a walk this summer with a Malamute and a Saluki.  Observe.

 

6.         Look at a Bedouin.  When they dress for extreme heat, they wear a thin, light-colored outer layer which is loose and light to allow airflow while reducing direct solar heating.  They avoid insulation.

 

If you think about the above, you will quickly see why clipping is contraindicated—it removes the outer shell and leaves only insulation! As time passes the insulating layer grows, and the dog has even more insulation and still no shell!  What you want to do is leave a thin outer shell layer to block direct solar heating, but remove as much as possible the insulation provided by the undercoat so that airflow is maximized.  Hence the virtue of rakes, coat-kings, blowers, and other tools that help the natural process of removing undercoat while leaving guard coat.  If you understand this logic, you can also see that in some cases it might be advised to clip a particular dog—say a Malamute in a warm climate that had tons of undercoat and very little guard coat—this dog might in fact stay cooler without the insulation as long as you kept the clip short all summer.  But for almost every dog, maximal cooling will be ensured by leaving the guard hairs and raking out the insulating undercoat!!

The one obvious exception to this general logic is when the ambient temperature in the area around your dog exceeds their body temperature.  In this case, one might argue that shaving would improve the rate at which heat can dissipate, and I suspect this is true; however, in all truth, if it is over 102 degrees, I would find more effective solutions—air conditioning, misting, swimming, relocating, etc. 

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 May 20, 2009  Posted by at 8:31 am
Feb 282009
 

img_2663Considerable media and public attention have recently centered on the question of where a responsible person can look to find just the right animal. Many of the loudest voices offering opinions have been somewhat disingenuous. People and organizations such as PETA and HSUS, who believe that animals do not belong in captivity and that all pet owners and breeders are unconscionable, are not really offering advice on how to find the best puppy, they are offering advice that advances their agenda of exterminating all dogs as soon as possible. Additionally, the notion that adopting a dog from a shelter is the most humane option has become so politically correct that it is virtual blasphemy to recommend alternative sources, and many celebrities and other superficial animal lovers simply parrot this advice without seriously contemplating what is best for new owners, individual dogs, or dogs in general.

As a professional animal trainer who has had the opportunity to work with many animals from every background but is neither a breeder nor a fulltime rescuer it will perhaps be useful if I share an unbiased but informed examination of the primary options.  Keep in mind that wonderful individuals can come from anywhere, presently half our dogs are from breeders and half are rescues, so this is on no way intended to make anyone feel bad about their pet-these are general trends and observations.

There is one answer to this question that should eclipse all others: make absolutely certain you are committed to keeping and caring for a pet for its entire lifetime, do sufficient research, and then get the animal you are most likely to keep: a physically and mentally healthy individual that is well suited to your lifestyle. This is not only best for you and your pet, it is the best thing you can do to ensure no dogs are needlessly killed in the future-if everyone keeps their dogs and does not dump them there will be no dogs to kill.

Before examining your options, let me point out one other important issue: when you select a dog you are making a decision that impacts you, the animal you select, all the animals you do not select, and has an impact on the supply and demand equation.

Do not let your judgment be clouded by people advocating that “rescue” is the only right answer.  Every single available animal needs rescuing-not from the shelter, not from the breeder, not even from the puppy mill, but from the far greater evil of the last century: the casual owner who is going to acquire a cute animal and then dump it as soon as it becomes more work.  A simple truth-the dogs at the shelter come from every conceivable background: puppy mills, pet stores,  strays, thoughtless families who breed dogs to make some money or show the kids the miracle of birth.  Many of these dogs came from another shelter that adopted them out previously.  Wherever a puppy begins its life, it will end up in the same unhappy place unless people live up to their responsibility.  Acquiring a dog ought to entail an absolute commitment to doing whatever is necessary to care for that animal for the next twenty years.  Months should be spent doing research-learning about the care, training, health, psychology, etc.  Determining whether a mix or a particular breed is best suited to your circumstances and expectations.  Learning about nutritional and medical issues, fencing in a yard, finding a good vet, purchasing toys and supplies, etc.  And above all else, making sure that you have the time, dedication, resources, and commitment to deal with whatever challenges may arise with that pet.

Breeders

This group comprises a wide range of people with various motives and beliefs.  Some of them only breed one litter in a lifetime, others breed many litters. Some of them breed hoping to make money, or to show their children the miracle of birth, others breed to produce the best puppies they can, to improve the breed, to win at shows.

Some have dogs crammed in little cages, others have palatial estates with pools and heated floors and canine nutritionists. Some know very little about dogs, others are knowledgeable almost beyond belief.

Good breeders are passionate about their animals and their breed.  In fact, most of them would be considered obsessed by mainstream Americans. They not only find their puppies excellent homes, but they provide lifetime support and education, and if it ever becomes necessary the take the dogs back years later and make sure they have excellent lives no matter what. They devote themselves to acquiring the knowledge and skills required to breed and raise puppies that are well adjusted, healthy, and conform to a well-considered standard for physiological and behavioral characteristics. Most good breeders operate at a financial loss and continue their efforts out of dedication and passion.

One of the biggest advantages to getting a dog from a breeder is age: puppies that have been raised by responsible breeders already have many good habits, and they are still young enough that you can nurture them into becoming the best possible dogs.

Some people argue that breeding is unconscionable by definition-that so long as dogs are being killed every year we have no business producing more.  This is simply wrong. If we stop breeding there will be no dogs in ten years, and if the good breeders stop, we will have simply eliminated the very people who are breeding healthy excellent dogs.  There is little question that too many dogs are being bred, but we need to be intelligent and eliminate the breeders who are doing a bad job, not the ones doing a good job.

Good breeders are the future of dogs. In a perfect world everyone would get their puppies from good breeders and no other options would exist-these are the people doing it most correctly.  “Animal Rights” advocates feel that all animals should be freed from captivity.  One of the most effective tools they have to further this agenda is to vilify all breeders and encourage people to get animals only from shelters.  Obviously, if they can eliminate all breeders they will eliminate all pets within one generation. So do not accept propaganda that all breeders are irresponsible.

Pet stores

Most informed animal lovers assume that pet stores are bad-they get their puppies from a wide range of breeders many of whom are unscrupulous (most upstanding breeders refuse to place puppies in pet stores), their puppies are generally not well-bred or adequately socialized, have often been over-vaccinated, roughly handled, and learned many bad habits like barking and going to the bathroom in their cages whenever they have the urge. They are often kept in too-small cages for far too long.

I will go out on a limb here and say something politically incorrect: there is nothing innately wrong with pet stores.  If a pet store gets a puppy from a reputable source and does an excellent job with that puppy, then I would have nothing against that pet store.  I have not personally ever seen this happen, and I have visited many pet stores, but there is no theoretical reason why it could not occur.

Shelters, pounds, rescues, humane societies

While the motives are often different, in many practical ways, these facilities are similar to pet stores: they take in animals that often come from the same places as pet store puppies, place them in homes, charge money, and try to generate enough revenue to stay in business. Whether you call this selling, adopting, or rescuing, the basic idea is the same and the advantages and drawbacks are the same.  They are often underfunded and overcrowded, and dog fights, substandard medical attention, inadequate nutrition, and neglect are every bit as common in bad shelters as at bad breeders. Some of the most unhappy animals I have ever encountered have been standing in the middle of an overcrowded run at a shelter with their eyes closed willing themselves to be anywhere else.

The history, health, and genetic inclinations of shelter dogs are usually unknown. Most shelters and rescues have a cookie cutter approach to veterinary care which results in the animals being extremely overvaccinated, over-exposed to toxins, fed poor quality food, spayed or neutered often at an extremely young age, and exposed to a huge number of diseases.  It should be assumed that any dog coming from a shelter is in compromised health.

In addition to health issues, many shelter dogs have behavioral issues. Some of them came to the shelter because of behaviors that were unlivable and unsolvable for at least one family already: housebreaking, barking, biting, jumping on people, etc. Some of them developed behavioral issues while in the shelter. Often these can be fixed, but unlearning bad habits is generally harder then learning good habits in the first place. It is an unfortunate logical truth that most of the people who have the skill and dedication to maximize a puppies development and socialization do not then dump that dog at the shelter, so “most” of the dogs that end up at the shelter are those who were raised by the sort of people who dump dogs at shelters, and these are not generally people who nurture and actualize a puppy’s potential.

Probably the biggest behavioral drawback to shelter dogs is not a bad behavior, but the absence of certain “good” habits that can be cultivated in the first few months of a dog’s life but are far more difficult to create later in life:

  • Being with your people is desirable: dogs are born with a very strong desire to stay close to mom. Smart owners nurture and develop this instinct so that, by 6 months, the dog not only comes when called, but also just tends to stay with you. Inexperienced owners teach the dog the opposite. Either by correcting the dog when near or by simply ignoring the dog, they teach him to wander off and entertain himself, and often to run away when called.
  • Learning is fun: a well-reared puppy learns early that life involves a never-ending game of training. They are very attentive to their owner and essentially always eager to hear their owner say something because they love to play the training game. They want to hear a command because each command represents an opportunity for them to win praise and treats and generally have a good time.
  • New people, sights, and sounds are fun: a well socialized dog is unafraid. He has learned that the world is full of strange things, but that each one is an exciting new adventure full of praise and play.

We have trained many shelter dogs, and many of them have been excellent dogs that have achieved great success. But as a general rule, dogs can be much more successful and happy if they are carefully nurtured from a young age. Shelters are somewhat similar to human prisons-there are many wonderful individuals if you know what to look for, but many have had less than ideal pasts.

A Practical Solution

If you seriously look at the various options for where to get a pet, you will likely reach the conclusion that the business model is not the issue: breeder, rescue, shelter, humane society, and pet store are terms that are often used to evoke emotional prejudices, but in truth any of them can be excellent sources of animals OR very bad sources. In my experience, the best place to find a healthy dog with a good temperament is at a good breeder: more breeders do an excellent job and are able to meet my criteria than rescues, shelters, or pet stores.  But if you research carefully and do a good job evaluting both the situation and the individual animal you can theoretically find a wonderful dog in any of these circumstances.

If you want to get the best puppy for yourself AND do the best thing you can do for future dogs, ignore the label and focus on the level of excellence they bring to the process. If consumers insist on getting healthy and good tempered animals from excellent sources, substandard sources will quickly disappear.

Go to various shelters, rescues, pet stores, and breeders and see how they compare to relevant and objective criteria.  Your precise criteria may differ from mine, and you may find a particular source that excels in some areas so much that you are willing to compromise on others, but here is a basic set of criteria that I start with:

  • Integrity: is honest with others and himself-every other point on this list depends on a person being willing and able to be completely honest about everything relating to their animals, and to be unbiased and careful in his evaluation of himself, his knowledge, and his animals.
  • Balance: this is a subtle but important issue for me. Many people become too focused on one attribute and forget about others. They are so focused on looks that they sacrifice health, or so focused on health that they neglect temperament. I look for someone who remains focused on the big picture of producing happy, healthy, wonderful dogs.
  • Cares about each animal, treats it as part of his family forever.
  • An appropriate ratio of people to animals so that each animal receives adequate quality time and attention
  • Any breedings are based on the parent’s appropriate temperament, freedom from congenital and hereditary defects, and qualities.
  • All breeding aims for health, temperament, conformation, and type
  • Honestly and objectively evaluates animals-not kennel blind or unrealistic.
  • Experienced and knowledgeable with breed
  • Environment
    • Maintains all animals in clean, healthy, humane conditions.
    • Environment is rich and full
    • Animals receive adequate opportunity to be outside
    • Animals receive adequate exercise
  • Health
    • All animals are given proper veterinary care
    • Does not over or under vaccinate, and remains current on pros and cons of vaccines in order to decide which inoculations are appropriate.
    • Feeds an appropriate and high quality food.
    • Tests for currently known genetic issues within the breed. (OFA or PennHip certification on hips and elbows, cardiologist examination, annual eye exams, thyroid tests, etc.)
    • Only breeds animals of known histories
    • Is aware of health problems in at least 3 generations of pedigree vertically and horizontally for each animal.
    • No animal bred before at least 2 years old
    • Makes spay/neuter decisions based on the best interests of the individual animal
  • Number of litters
    • No unplanned litters
    • No bitch bred more often than every other heat cycle
    • No bitch bred unless she is in optimal health
  • Education
    • Veterinary knowledge
    • Genetics
    • Diet
    • Behavior
    • Developmental psychology
    • Structure
    • History of other breeds to avoid the same mistakes
  • Placement
    • Requires return of animal if ever placement is required.
    • Requires health checks on all animals, regardless of if they are ever to be bred, andcollects results into a database.
    • Has more homes lined up than puppies expected and is prepared to keep each puppy as long as it takes to find an ideal home.
    • Interviews and screens thoroughly-requires referrals and calls them.
    • Honest about the qualities of the animals. Explains the good points and the bad.
    • Never promotes animals in a way to encourage reluctant buyers
    • Never places animals with anyone who does not seem entirely certain they want an animal for the next 15 years.
    • Explains the challenges of animal ownership honestly and carefully. Makes sure that buyers are prepared for the worst case.
    • Educates buyers on diet, socialization, training, husbandry, etc.
    • Carefully matches each animal with each home and will not place an animal if it is not a good match.
    • Carefully evaluates animals-notes available for review.
    • Does not place puppies too young-age depends on individual puppy and home to which it is going.
    • Requires return of animal if ever placement is required.
  • Post-placement follow-up
    • Stays in touch for lifetime.
    • Takes back any animal any time.
    • Available as resource forever.
    • Encourages buyers to call them with every question.
    • Enforces contract.
  • Guarantee
    • Explains that a guarantee is not a promise that a genetic health problem won’t occur, but a promise about what will happen if it does.
    • Guarantees puppies for five years or longer.
    • Guarantee is not limited to a replacement puppy from the same breeder-option for cash refund.
  • Records
    • Goes through each document point-by-point and ensures that the buyer understands and agrees with each point.
    • Supplies proof of health testing on parents and relatives.
    • Supplies purchasers with accurate and valid 4 generation pedigree
    • Supplies purchasers with a written contract of sale
    • Supplies written guarantee
    • Supplies instructions for care, upbringing and training.
    • Supplies recommended reading list.
    • Keeps accurate breeding records, registration papers, and pedigrees.
  • Socialization
    • All animals are well socialized
    • At least one person is available full time to puppies.
    • Excellent socialization plan from day 1 through placement
  • Canine Activities
    • Has participated in canine activities enough to have an idea of what drives and behaviors are required. Has a basic understanding of obedience and other areas in which people may want to participate.
  • Breed Betterment
    • Participates in health studies
    • Participates in educational activities
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 February 28, 2009  Posted by at 8:19 am Tagged with: , , ,
Feb 052009
 

“Do exotic animals make good pets?” is one of the most common sentences I hear, often with the words jeckyldecember1092“exotic animals” replaced with a particular animal, and there is never a good answer because it is the wrong question!  There is broad array of animals and an even broader array of human preferences, so the right question is, “Would this particular type of animal make a good pet for me right now?” 

Let me clarify this with a metaphor:  Is a Ferrari a good car?  If you are looking for a reliable vehicle that gets good gas mileage, has low cost of ownership, and can transport your children to soccer practice, NO!  If you are looking for a safe vehicle for your reckless 17 year old son, NO!  If you are looking for a beautiful Italian sports car that goes very fast and impresses the ladies, YES!  Is a Ferrari dangerous?  That depends entirely on the driver. Most people should not get a Ferrari, but for those who should it is a perfect choice. Same thing with any animal, domestic, wild, or exotic—if the particular animal fits into your lifestyle and you understand and accept the compromises required to care for that animal, you can have a wonderful and safe experience that is deeply rewarding for both you and the animal. If you do not fully understand what you are getting into, there is a high likelihood that both you and the animal will be miserable…

Speak candidly with as many people as possible who have experience with the animal you are considering, and gather as much information as you can about the pros and cons of the animal.  Be honest with them about your lifestyle, personality, and concerns, and listen carefully to everything they say.  Spend some time around a few animals that are similar to what you are considering, and not only for a few minutes on their best behavior—offer to help clean cages, give them a bath, babysit for a weekend, whatever you can do to really understand what life with this animal is like.  Once you understand the negatives, you need to do three things carefully:

1.       Envision the worst case scenario.  You will likely do better than the worst case, but maybe not, so be prepared! Listen to all the negatives and imagine that you get an animal that does ALL of the worst things you hear.  Think about these negatives in the context of your preferences—are you tidy, quiet, like to sleep late, squeamish about feeding certain things, etc. Will you still be happy with that animal?

2.       Really, carefully imagine what those negatives mean over the lifetime of the animal.  It is easy to say that you do not mind being kept up overnight by noise, but by year seven you may not feel the same way.  It is easy to say you do not mind odor, or cleaning up many times per day, or having your couch chewed up, but imagine how you will feel when you have been living with that negative for years.  When I got a crow, I was warned that they poop lots. Big deal, I have plenty of animals that poop lots… But a few years later, it IS a big deal.  I change my shirt 10 times every day, and mop the floor and wipe the couch and clean the wall and the seats in the car…  How will you feel about those negative later if you get married or have children?  How will you feel when you cannot go on vacation because you cannot find anyone to watch your animal? Genuinely and carefully think about this…

3.       Research the laws and regulations concerning the animal you want to own.  Federal, state, county, city, etc.  Make sure that you understand the rules so you do not risk yourself or your animal by breaking them.

All of these issues should be exactly the same whether you are getting a goldfish, cat, dog, monkey, wolf, or lion. If you go through these steps and are certain that you are prepared to live with the animal for its lifetime and make the requisite compromises, then you and the animal will likely have a wonderful experience.  Do as much research as possible, find a responsible breeder who has great animals and will give you support, get everything set up, and go for it! But if you are at all unsure, take more time to think about it: this is an important decision that will impact you and the animal for many years to come…

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 February 5, 2009  Posted by at 5:10 am Tagged with: , , ,
Jan 172009
 

riothat 

Many people react strongly to a pet in clothes.  “Demeaning, stupid, absurd, ridiculous…” 

The basis for this reaction is primarily the notion that the animal is embarrassed by wearing the clothes, and the owner who put the clothes on is irrationally anthropomorphizing an animal into a child or a Barbie doll. 

Let me suggest an alternate theory—the people who are bothered by this are actually the ones anthropomorphizing: an animal does not care about how he looks in a sweater.  He is not embarrassed.  He has no emotional reaction to the idea of wearing a sweater whatsoever. 

There are several reasons a person might decide to put clothes on a pet.  Let’s consider them individually:

 

1.       Socialization: responsible animal owners devote considerable time and energy to increasing their animal’s level of comfort in the world.  Part of doing this involves exposing the animal to a wide range of sensory input.  Wearing clothes or glasses or a hat is a new experience for an animal, and getting them used to that experience increases their temperamental stability.  I have trained many animals to happily wear clothes, and in every case it has been well worth the time in terms of their psychological development.  

 

wagantlers

 

 

2.       Animal gets cold: I am really not sure why wardrobe detractors do not imagine that dogs might get cold, but they do.  Particularly small dogs, or dogs with little coat, or in the rain, and having an insulating layer can be very effective in helping the dog to stay warm. 

3.       Protection: foxtails, thorns, sun, and many other environmental hazards can be significantly ameliorated in certain situations by using an appropriate jacket.

4.       Owner thinks the animal looks cute in clothes: personally I think this reason is a little silly, and I generally think animals are beautiful enough without clothing, but if a person derives pleasure from putting a dress on their poodle, and it does not harm or bother the dog, why is that objectionable?

5.       The animal likes wearing clothes: I think most animals are indifferent, but there may be some who really like the feeling or the attention.

There is little question that most clothing made for animals is absurd, and I am not about to start dressing all my pets, but I am going to continue training them to wear clothes, and when weather or circumstances warrant clothing I will happily put it on my pets.  Certain people will assume that I am simply a shallow, silly, sartorially obsessed ninny, but you will know better.  I am a responsible animal owner who is doing what is best for the animal regardless of what is politically correct…

 

tinjacket

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 January 17, 2009  Posted by at 10:07 am Tagged with: ,
Jan 152009
 

There is a conceptual fallacy that has existed for many years but seems to have recently increased in popularity.  It is the notion of the bad puppy: my puppy is so bad he ate my favorite shoe, knocked over grandma, chewed through a wall, dug up the yard, destroyed a pillow, drug a table around, pooped in a museum, chased a cat, jumped out a second story window, knocked a window out of my car, humped a pillow, got mud on my shirt on my way to work, got out of the fence, got on the counter, stole the steaks, released the parking brake, set the curtains on fire, peed on my bed…

Let me share a slightly painful insight with you—these are not bad puppies, they are just puppies owned by idiots.  The amount of trouble your puppy gets into is a measure of your IQ, not his mischievousness.

I know, it hurts and you want to deny it.  Don’t.  Believe me, whatever your puppy has done, I have seen it.  My house has raised countless puppies of every variety, lions, hyenas, raccoons, crows, lemurs, antelope, skunks, wolves, coyotes, goats, chickens, rats, kinkajou, etc.  I have seen things destroyed that you would not believe. I have seen my house flooded and my car’s interior completely destroyed, and I can honestly tell you it is almost always the owner’s fault… 

If it seems like your puppy is more trouble than any other puppy, it simply means you are messing up more.  You are failing to imagine the trouble he can get into, you are making mistakes.  Sure, some puppies have more energy or are more destructive, but they all follow the same immutable laws of nature. They chew, they dig, they run, they jump, they climb, and they get into exactly as much trouble as you allow, no less and no more. 

Don’t feel too bad about this.  One of the many gifts your puppy will give you is humility.  He will remind you that for all your vaunted higher reasoning skills, your thumbs, your speech and writing skills, you can still be outwitted by a ten week old puppy with boundless energy…

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 January 15, 2009  Posted by at 10:20 am Tagged with: , , ,
Jan 152009
 

In February, Pat Patrick and Emily Dennis were arrested on charges of dog fighting. Ostensibly damning evidence was also seized—treadmills, antibiotics, etc. Their animals were rescued from their enclosures by the humane society and taken to be put in other small enclosures.

Numerous media stories talked about the glorious rescue of these dogs by the heroic humane society.

Over the next few months, virtually all of the dogs were killed by the humane society.

Nine months later, both defendants were acquitted because there was no compelling evidence that they had fought their dogs.

The day after Patrick and Dennis were acquitted, HSUS presented their 2008 Humane Law Enforcement Awards to the persons responsible for this raid.

I have no idea if these people were fighting their dogs or not. No idea if their dogs had good lives or not, and I am certainly not defending anything they may have done to harm the dogs.

What I do know is that the dogs were taken and killed before their owners even got to present their case in court. And no restitution was paid, no apology offered. Quite the contrary, awards were given out for those involved. And that simply terrifies me. That means the HSUS can raid anyone they want and seize their dogs. Their evidence could be something as specious as the fact that you spent thousands of dollars to purchase a treadmill to help exercise your beloved dogs.  Sure, you may be proven innocent in the end, but your dogs will have been traumatized, over-vaccinated, hacked into, or just plain killed…

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 January 15, 2009  Posted by at 9:23 am Tagged with: , , ,
Jan 102009
 

One of the most important tools utilized by most animal owners is fencing. Fencing keeps your animal where you want it and keeps other people and animals away. Depending on your needs, fencing can also provide a visual barrier or reduce sound transmission. Fencing is vital to protecting your animal, your neighbors, and yourself.

Fence construction is based on a spectrum:

100: Six sides, steel or concrete, heavy gauge, locked gate. Secondary fence to keep people back and walls that block most sight and sound.

75: 6 or 8 foot chainlink with tip in, buried 2 feet or with 3 foot skirt

50: 5 foot chainlink tight to ground but not buried, latched gate with spring

25: 3.5 foot picket fence, latched gate

1: One strand of reminder wire

The reason it is important to consider this spectrum is that any fence less than 100 is not escape-proof.  This means that you are “trusting” that your animal will not chose to escape at any particular moment. Which is not necessarily wrong, but it is important that you be aware of this so you can make reasonable choices.  Particularly important is to consider how things can change—what happens if a cat walks by, or fireworks go off, or it rains or snows.  Try to imagine every situation in which you might expect your fencing to contain your animal…

The fencing I build depends on several variables:

1.       The animal: Is he likely to be scared and try to escape, if he did escape does he have a good recall? How big and strong is the animal?

2.       The animal’s training and history: does he dig, chew, climb? Does he test fences? Has he been kept behind electric fencing? Does he respect fencing? When loose does he come to the front door or run off?

3.       The intended usage for the particular enclosure:  will animals be left in the enclosure unattended? For how long? Is it a small enclosure within my perimeter fencing, or will it be the only layer of containment?

4.       What is outside the fence:  If building a fence in town or next to a cattery, I would build more strongly than if building out in the middle of nowhere.  Look to see what might attract your animal, what might scare your animal, and what hazards there are to your animal if he did get loose.

5.       Surrounding hazards: it is always important to consider how your fence could fail.  Are there trees that could fall or drop limbs, could snow pile up and let your animal climb over, could someone open the gate?  Is the ground soft and easily dug or eroded? Also, consider location with regards to people who might taunt, harass, steal, or poison your dog.

6.       Distance from people: many people find barking dogs really annoying, and this can lead to very serious problems, so if I were building an enclosure that was near people I would consider soundproofing or sound deadening materials and/or white noise like a fountain.

I tend to overbuild fencing because it seems that no matter what I anticipate, six months later I end up watching a dog for a friend and need to put him in a yard and he is a dedicated escape artist. I also tend to keep animals inside anytime I am not home, but if I were going to leave them out I would want more reliable fencing. I also generally like having two fences—an outer yard fence that keeps people out and that keeps my animals in when I am there playing with them, and a smaller enclosure within that yard where I can put them when I need to rely on the fence to keep them contained.

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 January 10, 2009  Posted by at 9:12 pm Tagged with: , , , ,