Jan 012009
 

I just had the pleasure of watching a perfect 20 minute training session using what modern trainers would call the LRS technique, and thought I would share it with the group. It is not new information or insight, just an illustration of effective use of a training method.  The animal being trained was Ansel.  He is an adolescent GSD rescue from Czech lines that is VERY intense and high energy.  He did not get socialized much in his first home, and he is very demanding and easily over-stimulated.  We have been working with him for around 6 months now, and he is getting much better, but still can be very pushy in certain situations.

        The training session was outside, I was sitting nearby watching while Ansel was bouncing and trying to get the trainer to play with him.  He ran up and barked in his face, and the trainer FROZE.  No movement, not even an eye blink.  Ansel did not know what to do, so he pawed at the trainer, then mouthed him.  No response.  Ansel tried for a minute and then wandered off.  The trainer moved, and Ansel came running back over and tried again.  This time he jumped up with both feet and licked and whined and shoved.  Again, nothing.  This cycle repeated several times, with Ansel being pushy and getting nowhere.  Around the tenth time, Ansel quietly sat in front, and immediately the trainer engaged and started playing with him.  Ansel got too rambunctious and the trainer froze, looking away and ignoring Ansel.  Again, Ansel tried demanding attention, but there was no response.  Ansel lay down, and immediately the trainer started playing with him.  This time, the play went on for a few seconds, and then Ansel got too assertive. Again the trainer froze. Ansel stepped back, puzzled.  He could tell there was a rule here that he was not getting and he really wanted to understand so the play would continue.  He lay down and cocked his head.  Again, play.  This time, Ansel was less pushy, less sure of himself.  At one point he got a little too excited, and the trainer gave a gentle verbal cue.  Ansel immediately cooled off.  Less than 20 minutes had passed, and Ansel was playing appropriately, without biting hard or jumping up.  At this point, I ended the session, wanting Ansel to have succeeded.

        The trainer in this session was Loki, a 10 year old forty pound Border Collie :))  He “knew” that if he tried to correct Ansel, a fight would start that Ansel would win.  And he “knew” that the fight would be very rewarding to Ansel. He “knew” that if he ran away Ansel would follow. So he outsmarted Ansel–he made sure that Ansel was not AT ALL reinforced for the negative behavior, and that he was not provoked.  At the same time, he made sure that good behavior got Ansel what he wanted. Simple, effective, lovely….

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 January 1, 2009  Posted by at 7:18 pm Tagged with: , , ,
Dec 312008
 

This protocol is anecdotal—we have not applied a rigorous scientific approach—we had a single sample, no control, and no supporting data (follow up radiographs/biopsies, etc). Our data is based solely on a single fourteen year old dog who remained extremely comfortable and active for ten months after diagnosis.

Options that we utilized (amounts are based on our 40 pound dog):

Artemisinin: We alternated between Holley, Allergy Research Group/Nutrology or Wellcare Pharmaceuticals (the Hepalin, a synthetic blend) and pure Artemisinin. We also used the 2-4 mg/kg day with a large dose (100mg/kg) once a week. We gave him 1-2 days off and then back to the low dose for 5 days. There are several research papers out there with differing opinions so pick one that seems right for you. Give the artemisinin on an empty stomach.

Low/no carbohydrate diet: Raw mix of ground chicken backs, eggs, buffalo liver, green and orange veggies, beet pulp (sugar removed) and about 5% oats. We also give fish or beef.

Metacam (or Piroxicam or other NSAIDS): SID—slow tumor growth/metastasis through COX2 dependant routes and provide pain management benefits.

Tramadol: SID or BID as needed for comfort

Vitamin C: (high dose) 2-5 grams/day. Avoid ascorbic acid.

Turmeric: New Chapter Turmeric Force 80-120 mg/kg

Cat’s Claw

Tetracycline:  We did this for the first few weeks and then stopped. Has been shown to slow osteosarcoma.

Butyrate: available at Holleypharma and has been shown to enhance the effects of artemisinin. Data found in Anticancer Research 25: 4325-4332 (2005) and Cancer Letters 91 (1995) 41-46

Gastric Calm

Activated mushroom complex: (increases NK cell activity) New Chapter Host Defense 2-3 caps/day.

Multi-vitamin with general immune boosting: Country Vitamin Wellness Defense. Half human dose daily.

Essiac Tonic: We are getting this from the co-op and giving one capsule SID for 2 months.

Fish oil:  1-2 grams every other day

Flax oil/Cottage cheese: 1 TBS FO and 2 TBS of cottage cheese 2-3 times a week. .

 

Options we did not utilize but are worth considering:

Limb sparing surgery

Amputation

Scintigraphy

Chemotherapy (Cisplatin, Carboplatin, Doxorubicin, etc.)

Palladia: the first canine specific anti-mast-cell medication approved by the FDA.  It was not available when Loki was alive, but is worth researching.  

Radiation

Bisphosphonate

Photodynamic therapy / Hyperthermia

Neoplasene (herbal, some are finding effective)

 

Good sources of additional information:

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 December 31, 2008  Posted by at 9:02 pm Tagged with: , , , , ,
Dec 312008
 

You have a puppy that is going to the bathroom in the house. This is a relatively straightforward issue to fix; yet a huge number of dogs end up in the shelter because this was never really trained.

There are many books and articles on housebreaking, and while most of them are potentially effective and a few of them are genuinely excellent, the vast majority of them suffer from the same flaw: they start from the assumption that you should get this done as quickly as possible. Superficially that undoubtedly seems like a pretty good assumption; after all, we are all in a hurry to get past this stage. But here is the rub—housebreaking is one of the first shared experiences your puppy will have with you.  During this phase he is getting to know you and learning how you communicate and how you lead.  Housebreaking will set the tone and create habits that will remain with you and your dog for many years.

I think it can be risky for people to think that faster is better and then put more pressure on themselves and their puppies because they feel they are failing if they have not housebroken their puppy at a certain age. Many dog owners, particularly somewhat novice pet owners, place WAY too much emphasis on quick housebreaking.  On many occasions I have had people tell me how “smart” their dog was, and their evidence has been that the individual dog was housebroken in 12 minutes or less. Absolutely, some dogs naturally get the concept very easily, others have a much harder time, but this is hardly a measure of anything.

 

Obviously I share a desire not to have my house covered in excrement; however, I feel that establishing the tone of a lifelong relationship is so much more important, and since this is the first “training” that is going to occur for most dogs, I hate to think how many people are in such a hurry that they do not apply the same care and compassion they do with every other behavior.  I have watched many otherwise competent trainers forget everything they know about communicating with animals when their innocent puppy happens to squat on their precious carpet!  It is easy to housebreak quickly, but is it ideal?  I would rather take longer than rush this key time in my puppy’s life.  This is exacerbated by the fact that people tend to think animals should naturally be tidy and are somewhat revolted by their puppies willingness to soil everywhere.  So for several weeks, puppy gets to know its new person as a frustrated, unhappy, lunatic who has a fit every now and then for no obvious reason!

 

Put another way, most of us would not correct a dog for failure to complete a behavior UNTIL we were certain that the dog understood the desired behavior.  Yet how many people start correcting this behavior from day 1 without first ensuring the dog understands what is being asked?

 

So, assuming you are with me so far, how do you housebreak in a manner that will nurture your animal’s psyche and establish good habits?

 

1.      Management—step one is to figure out how to keep your puppy from going in the house.  If he is constantly able to go on the floor, nothing else you do is going to matter.  So, whenever you are not able to watch your puppy, you need a plan.  He can go outside in the yard, he can be in a crate, whatever, but he cannot be unsupervised in the house until he is reliably housetrained.

2.      Frequency and consistency—take your puppy outside LOTS.  It can sometimes feel like all you do is go outside—after he naps, after he eats, after he drinks, after he plays, etc. 

3.      Vigilance—my brother used to call me several times each day and tell me that he had found a puddle on his carpet.  Every time he would swear up and down that he had never taken his eyes off the puppy.  But when I went to visit, he would go and make dinner while the puppy played in the living room. It will only take a few weeks, but you need to be TRULY vigilant.

4.      Praise—you need to go outside with your puppy so that you can praise him when he goes outside. People stick their puppies outside for ten minutes and assume they went potty.  If you are not there you cannot know, and you cannot praise.  

5.      Disappointment—I find acting disappointed when a puppy does have an accident is surprisingly effective.  I do not yell or scream, I am just sad and very disappointed.

6.      Patience—if you are doing the above, this problem will get better and better and will go away in a few weeks.  So do not stress about it.  Believe me, I have had more animals of more species than most people have ever met pee and poop on my floor, and it all cleans up and the world does not end!

7.      Correction—once you are fairly sure that your puppy understands what is being asked, you will get a few perfect opportunities to correct.  I am not a big believer in correction, but this is one of those places where one well timed correction can be profoundly effective.  Again, you want to be certain they understand your preference, and then you wait for a moment and just as they start you loudly exclaim, “NO” and pick them up and run them outside where you wait for them to go (it may take a while since you just startled them) and praise the heck out of them.

 

 

Here is the simple truth of housetraining—if you string together 100 times of your puppy going outside and you praising him, he will be trained.  But each time you fail to praise him outside, or fail to prevent him inside, that counter resets…  So, challenge yourself to be perfect 100 times in a row, and know that if you fail it is you who failed, not your puppy…

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 December 31, 2008  Posted by at 1:24 am Tagged with: , ,
Dec 312008
 

Like just about everyone who has ever faced this question, I continually re-examine my view.  Although we each desire never to misjudge this question, we cannot really know the “answer.” So we struggle to decide what is right, and spend hours sitting with our aging dogs, willing ourselves to know their feelings.

 

Of course, so fundamental a decision is supremely private: we each confront it with the necessary courage and integrity at the end of a lifetime of love. We try to balance emotion and reason and do what is best in our hearts and minds for our beloved friends who live too short a while. I do not criticize any other person’s viewpoint; rather, I offer my view, in the hope that people who are wrestling with the question will find it useful. My answer to this question even a few years ago was different than it is today…

 

Part of what makes this decision so difficult is that well-cared for pets generally live far beyond a point where they would die in nature.  Inability to hunt, disease, dominance fighting, and other natural factors mean that true geriatrics is rare in nature. By the time we are wrestling with this question, our pets have already outlived their natural lifetime, and so every day we keep them alive is, in effect, a choice we are making.  We cannot hide from this truth—we are profoundly responsible for this final decision.

 

Many people try to evaluate quality of life by comparing present life with youth and quickly discover that old age does not have the same quality. But life possesses quality, regardless of action, quality that cannot easily be understood, much less measured. Certainly there is joy in chasing balls, herding sheep, and running through the woods, and as such joy fades, the quality of life is changed. But there is joy in lying on a pillow while your friend strokes your ears. There is joy in memory, in imagination. There is quality in being alive. I remember my great-grandmother’s last days. She was 100, and I was 10. I did not really see the point of her last years-she was largely bedridden and needed help even to go to the bathroom. But in her final days I caught a glimmer of her wisdom: perhaps those days held value I could not see. As she spent those last days surrounded by family and friends, I found myself wondering what is the value of a day in a life? Surely it is not going to the bathroom by oneself, or even playing soccer, or walking on the beach, even though I love those things.

 

Without really knowing what gives a day, or a life, value, how can I decide when the days no longer contain “enough”?

 

Death, and dying, and even pain, have dignity and grace. They are a part of life, a part that we often fear and do not understand, but nonetheless a valuable and important component of the whole. Most of us know memories that are painful but are nonetheless cherished.

 

People often suggest that keeping an animal around “too long” is selfish. Certainly this is sometimes true. I believe that far more often the opposite is true: euthanasia is chosen because we cannot stand to see our beloved friends suffer. We cannot ourselves bear the emotion of protracted demise. We cannot comfortably watch an animal once so vibrant now unable to easily stand.

 

People talk about loss of dignity, suggesting that when their animal becomes incontinent, for example, they must euthanize it to avoid the sense of shame we imagine our friend might be feeling. I believe that dignity, for people and for animals, derives from elements more intrinsic then simple physicality.

 

There are circumstances in which euthanasia may be a true kindness because the owner knows that the animal is confronting a long period of pain with little or no chance of meaningful recovery.

 

People often talk about their dog “telling them when it is time.” I believe there is much truth in this. There comes a moment when, overwhelming though the grief may be, you know that the end has come. Their eyes no longer sparkle, the fight to live is gone, the will, the joy. I know each time this moment has come for one of our dogs, Lauren and I have felt it simultaneously.  There may have been days or even weeks of wondering, but there comes a moment when we both know that our friend’s body has become a prison from which we can free them.

 

Most importantly, know that there is no wrong time so long as you are doing what you believe is best for your animal.  Do not rush the decision—you can always wait another day to be sure. And do not delay—when you are sure your animal is no longer happy, it is time.  And whatever decision you make, let it go immediately.  There is no value in second guessing your decision.

 

As I write, my grand Anatolian Shepherd, Kolya, lies at my feet. Reluctantly I acknowledge that my friend has become old now, and stiff, tender sometimes, and slow. Only yesterday, it seems, I was sitting on the floor playing with his litter and trying to decide which squirmy pup should come home with me. For fourteen years Kolya has been my best friend, and I sometimes feel I cannot stand the grief of him leaving. He is the only living being who shared with me my adventures in Montana, who was with me as I lay wretched with food poisoning on the roadside near Barstow, who remembers Tillie as she truly, improbably was. How can I be without him? How can I bear the unimaginable loss? Each night I lie with him alongside and wonder what is right? Kolya no longer “does” much; he rarely runs or plays, and his demand for petting now comes more with his eyes then the rest of his body, but for me – and I believe for him – life is about “being,” not “doing.” And as long as he is comfortable, I will give Kolya the honor of being as he has always been – himself, independent, surrounded by love. I cannot know what awaits him as he departs this world; it will be my friend’s first journey ever without me. If possible, I will let Kolya decide when it is time. I will strive, as always, to make every moment of his life as excellent as I can, and to support him fully.  When Kolya departs, I will be with him. I will love him. I will remember him always, and I will try to be the person he saw in me and to remember the lessons he taught me. That is the best I can do…

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 December 31, 2008  Posted by at 12:40 am Tagged with: , , , , , ,
Dec 302008
 

One of our primary responsibilities as animal owners is to ensure their psychological welfare, and that means avoiding boredom, promoting exercise, developing confidence, etc.  While each of these things should be addressed actively, there are also times when you are not available to entertain your animals, but you can enrich their environments…

Here are a few suggestions. General concepts to remember: safety, of course–observe anything you give and make sure it is safe and does not frighten or overly stress your animal. Anticipate any way he could ingest, get stuck, fall, etc. Remember that change is good– anything new and different is enriching. The single best thing your animal can learn from enrichment is that he can influence the environment to cause a desired outcome. This decreases stress and increases learning in new situations as well as decreasing boredom! Not all of these suggestions will be good for you, they are some ideas to start from–be creative!!   Also remember that everything you do is teaching habits and reinforcing behaviors, so think about what you are training with any new activity. 

Training, Training, Training!!  You teaching new behaviors is the single greatest source of novelty!  Not just obedience, try freestyle or teach a few tricks.

Play.  Remember, play is a great stress reliever, so spend time each day consciously playing with your animal. Wrestle, play chase, etc.

Kong stuffed with cheese or peanut butter (Stick a Nylabone in the end to make it last longer)

A fountain that sprays for five minute after animal presses large button

Chicken broth giant ice cubes–these can be given to the animal, or hung so they drip all day

Buster cube or any object with food that comes out a hole

Large hard Plaque attacker (observe for the first few days make sure no large pieces are being removed and eaten)

Hanging tire

Tug toy from a rope attached up high to a rubber spring or you play tug with them yourself

Knuckle bones

Wobble board or large ball on which you teach the animal to balance. (Great for proprioception)

Treadmill or underwater treadmill

Loose crickets (assuming your stomach and ethics do not object)

Feeder fish in pool (assuming your stomach and ethics do not object)

Solid container with a screw on lid that has food inside

Different surfaces– bark, sand, rock, grass, astro-turf, metal, tile, etc.

Button to press that plays a song

An endless pool

A wind chime hung high

Some little mirrors or a disco-ball hung high that will make lights move around as they blow in the wind

Tunnel

A sprinkler or other water-spraying device, especially if the water moves.

Hang food where they cannot get to it, and give them a platform they can drag and climb on to get the food

Sounds– sometimes play stereo or TV, sometimes sounds of nature or dog shows

Smells– sometimes spray a new cologne at the base of a tree or other object in run. Place in their pen a blanket from another animal

Set up an aromatherapy infuser

Shallow water to play in

Visual barriers

Boomer balls

An animal in an adjacent enclosure

A slide

Hole to dig in

Nylabones slathered in cream cheese

Do not feed in the morning and hide food around run (bury some and put some up high, etc.)

New foods- broccoli, bananas, beef, whatever.  

Big branches or old dead tree

Beam or plank to walk on

Device that blows bubbles

Massage or T-touch.

Big wooden box with various openings leading to food–some should have screw on lids, others sliding lids, others the food should be out of reach, etc.

Buy or build toys with sliding doors that have to be moved to get to food (Like tic tac toe)

Build device that requires several steps to get food– pull one lever than go to other side of run and pull another and get treat

Vertical levels– build platforms at different heights and with ramps and steps

CHANGE– move stuff around, add stuff, take things out, etc.

 

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 December 30, 2008  Posted by at 8:22 pm Tagged with: , , , ,
Dec 302008
 

One of the first lessons any young animal needs to learn is how and when to use—and not use—his teeth. While various terms and training techniques are utilized, there are essentially two techniques for resolving the issue of biting:

·         Bite prohibition—teeth are never used on humans. This school argues that no tooth should ever touch flesh or clothing.  The principal advantage is that this is a very clear and simple rule for both the trainer and the animal to understand.

·         Bite inhibition—teeth may be used on humans, but only when humans initiate such action, and must be used gently.  The principal advantage of this method is that the animal learns that human flesh is weak and that biting should not be hard. 

 Either of these techniques can be successfully trained with reasonable effort; however, I strongly recommend inhibition unless you do not feel that you can master the timing and training required. 

Let me briefly explain why inhibition is the better option: if you observe carnivores in the wild, or in captivity interacting with each other, you will quickly note that they have virtually perfect bite inhibition: they can carry babies, wrestle with friends, cavort with mates, all using their teeth without causing injury.  This is one of the deepest and earliest lessons learned by any wild animal—bite your siblings too hard and the fun stops, bite your mom to hard and the food stops.  Every wild animal is a master at using his mouth carefully, and this is powerfully instinctive.  Conversely, you will virtually never see any animal practice bite prohibition. It simply does not make any sense for an animal to not use his mouth since the mouth represents the primary tool for interacting.  

In addition to being more natural, teaching inhibition nurtures a stronger bond.  Again, look at wild animals—they routinely mouth and groom the animals with whom they are closest.  The only animals they do not touch with their mouths are their enemies.

A strongly inhibited animal is much less likely to bite, and if a bite does occur, it is far less likely to be serious because you have essentially conditioned their brains and bodies to bite gently.  Conversely, bite prohibition is a trained rule, and when a strong enough stimulus arises, most animals will disobey a trained rule and the consequences can be dire.

Regardless of which technique you train, do not utilize punishment during the early stages.  Punishment is virtually never an ideal tool for teaching—animals learn far faster when encouraged to try the right behavior, but particularly for teaching this lesson, punishment is contraindicated.  You start teaching this lesson to animals that are very young, and you work on it so often, that it plays a huge role in setting the tone of your animal’s interaction skills, and if you are using violence your animal will learn that the way to resolve disagreements is through violence. In my experience, most animals that are trained using bite prohibition and repeated corrections eventually become unreliable and potentially dangerous when they are powerful adults.

Teaching Bite Inhibition

Before you begin, remind yourself of a few central notions:

·         Patience—this is going to take weeks, and you cannot expect a baby to magically know not to bite. They do not have great behavioral self control nor do they have fine motor skills, so it is a process, not an overnight fix.  As they get more mature and you teach them more and more, they will get better and better and hard biting will extinguish. 

·         Willingness to be mouthed—you may have developed an aversion to ever having teeth touch your skin if you have taught bite prohibition in the past, and you need to reset this expectation.  In fact you need to reverse it to the point that you actively seek to have your body used as a gentle toy.  If not, you will not successfully reinforce inhibition.

Also before you begin, familiarize yourself with the following adjunct methodologies that will be used in parallel with the training to reinforce the core lessons and to avoid being bitten until the animal has mastered inhibition:

·         Displacement—when the animal is mouthy and you are not in the mood to train, have high value toys that you can lure him to play with instead of your hand.

·         Feeding—animals often get more mouthy when hungry, so for a long time avoid playing any games when they have not eaten for a while, so you do not set them up to fail.

·         Hand feeding—feed as much as you can from your hands, but only feed a calm animal that is listening and doing what is asked, and never let biting get them the food. 

·         Hand licking—feed peanut butter or squeeze cheese from your hands that he has to gently take from your flesh without biting.  If he nips at all, leave (again tie him to something solid so you can just step back).

·         Play with teeth and gums and mouth lots—brush teeth, open up mouth and stick in a treat, generally get him used to having your hands in there.

·         Restraint game—lie somewhat on top of your animal, not squishing him but bear hugging him, and restrain him until he relaxes.  Talk to him calmly and soothingly, but do not let him loose until he relaxes and settle. This may take a while at first, but will get easier each time.  Do not release him if he only holds still—wait for him to genuinely relax.

·         Calming games—when your animal is already tired in the evening, sit and stroke, him, and if he mouths very gently put a word to it and teach him it is okay to hold your hand in his mouth affectionately while you massage or stroke. You can use this same time to teach him to play dead since you are reinforcing lying still and quiet anyway.

·         Never let biting get him anything he wants—if he uses his mouth to correct you, even gently, that never works. Of course, safety first—if you are at risk, end the behavior and get yourself safe and then think about how you are going to address the problem.

Now that you have internalized the secondary techniques, it is time to focus on actually conditioning inhibition:

Step 1. Let your baby play with lots of other juveniles and reasonable adults—animals that will effectively correct any excessive nips. Intentionally pair him with animals that will play, but that will not put up with being bitten hard—some older dogs will correct for this, others will just leave and not play for a while.  Both effectively teach the pup limits.  Other animals can teach this in a few days where it would take most humans longer, and once your baby has the idea, it will be much easier for humans to impose our limits. Regardless of the species of animal I am training, I will usually let them play with some gentle dogs who are very good models of playing without biting hard.

Step 2. Teach “do not bite humans hard, we are REALLY wimpy.”  First make sure he is a little tired and has played with other animals or a toy for a while.  You want to set him up to succeed, and not to rehearse the bad behavior. Sit down in a boring area and play with your hand in his mouth as a toy. Immediately start pairing a word to this so he knows there is a cue for this game (try to use a command that sounds better in public then “bite.”)  Any time he is too rough, say “ouch” and stop playing.  You can have him on leash with the leash attached to something solid so he cannot follow, or just go a few feet away and pout for several minutes. Your goal is to be completely and palpably unstimulating—exude boringness and stillness. Return and make up so he knows that you are not mad and do not love him less– it is merely a consequence of his biting too hard that all play and fun stop.  In general, do not correct, it is generally not very effective, and often backfires or at least erodes the pup’s confidence. Timing and awareness are key here—you want to praise and reward gentleness whenever they occur and gradually raise the criteria—react to softer and softer bites until he can play with your hand lots and never bite hard at all. And remember that as you are playing you may praise, but it is really the play that is the reward, so it is soft mouth and energy that perpetuate the play.

Step 3. Concurrent with step two, but in separate training sessions, teach an “off,” “leave it,” or “drop” command. Do this starting with food or a toy in your hand. Say “leave it,” wait till he is not trying to get the reward, then reward him.  Sometimes reward with the item he was waiting for, other times with a different reward.  Do this several times a day and increase the duration of how long he must “leave it” before getting the reward.  Once he understands the static version of this game, start playing with him having a toy and saying leave it and then giving them a reward after the drop the toy.  Do this every day, and incorporate tug games, so he really values the toy, but learns to leave it when asked because a better reward is coming.  Once he can do this reliably with toys, combine this with step two– play gently with your hand, until you say leave it, then let go and get a treat.  Be sure to give a command for playing with your hand, and never let him initiate the game–beat him to it.  Often reward the “leave it” by starting up the bite game again.  If he does not leave it, say “ouch,” and leave and do not play again for a while.  And go back and reinforce “off” in other situations.  Also, start breaking this game up by giving other incompatible commands while playing– bite, bite, bite, down! Bite, bite, bite, sit, bite, bite, bite, come, etc.  Lots of praise and rewards.  During these games, initially keep the pup somewhat calm, but as you progress, get him more and more excited so he learns to bite softly even when excited and “leave it” even when in the middle of an awesome game.

Step 4. Be consistent in never letting the animal initiate this game—“bite” can only happen when you ask.  But, this means you need to be smart and not set him up to fail—if he is wired and likely to be bitey, play other games and do not let him rehearse hard biting.

Step 5.   Near the beginning of this document we explained that punishment was not an appropriate tool for teaching; however, over time as he begins to understand the rule, he is going to occasionally bite too hard because he gests too excited or wants to test limits, and a correction may well be appropriate.  Any effective correction can be utilized, but my favorite is to quickly pin the animal down and hold him there until he settles and then release and go on with playing. This is an effective correction and has the ancillary benefit of creating an emotional time-out each time the animal gets to excited so they learn to cap their energy level. If you decide to correct, you need to be physically and emotionally forceful enough that it is effective.  If your animal hops right back up and bites hard again, and you do the same correction again, you are just nagging and teaching him a fun game of biting harder.

“Mother animals correct their babies” is often cited as proof that we should correct babies who bite.  This is excellent logic, but requires careful examination.  First of all, no carnivorous mother corrects biting per se.  On the contrary, if you watch, just as in the process above, the mother will spend much of the day happily being bitten, chewed, tugged, gnawed, etc. So long as they do not bite too hard, mom is extremely tolerant and plays with them or allows this behavior.  When they start to get too hard, mom holds them down.  If they get harder, mom often trots away.  On occasion, mom has had enough and snarls and snaps at them. She does correct them, and can do so very effectively, but it is in a very low ratio to the amount of time she spends reinforcing proper gentle biting.

People often expect animals to be innately sweet and are hurt and angry any time they bite. It is important to remember that biting and mouthing are vital and normal parts of any animal’s existence and expression.  We cannot expect them to know better until we help them learn limits, teach them other ways to communicate, and earn their trust that they do not need to bite. Do not be angry with them for behaving naturally, and do not smack, shake, flick, scare, or correct them for doing something you have not yet taught them not to do.  At the same time, do not allow them to rehearse an unacceptable behavior—set clear boundaries and use the techniques above to avoid biting while you utilize creative and imaginative non-confrontational techniques to train your young animal to understand those boundaries. This training takes time, but if done with consistency and fairness it is extremely effective, and you will have a wonderful animal who will never bite hard…

 

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 December 30, 2008  Posted by at 8:10 pm Tagged with: , , ,
Dec 302008
 

Most dogs are under-conditioned and overweight.  This is a huge problem in dogs as it is in people.  It puts undue stress on their joints.  It taxes their cardiovascular system. It reduces the quality and duration of their lives.  This is ridiculous.  Feed them less-exercise them more!

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In my experience each dog requires a different program. Some are ectomorphic and we focus on adding muscle, others are endomorphic and we prioritize fat burning. Some can run all day but are weak in speed so we focus on developing speed and acceleration. With each dog we try to strengthen their weaknesses and improve overall balance, while at the same time developing natural strengths. A theoretical conundrum, but in practice we tend to have a strong gut feeling for what each individual needs. If you are keenly observant and strive for maximal overall fitness, I think most of the details are subsumed by the body’s natural ability to accommodate and achieve optimal health.

Much of what we “know” from human exercise is not directly applicable—canine metabolism and energy utilization are significantly different from human, but many of the notions can be adapted.

Here are a few of the principles we tend to utilize:

1. Safety–Always warm your dogs up at the beginning of an exercise session, and warm-down at the end. Make increases gradual, be patient, and give the body time to adapt. Use common sense and avoid injury! Remember that energy pathways, and muscles, develop far more quickly than bones and connective tissues, so you need to progress, particularly at first, at a rate that does not outstrip the slowest developing parts. Dogs have evolved to have all four feet on the ground. This means leaping in the air can be very hard on them.  Their stifles and cruciate ligaments can easily tear. If you play frisbee or throw balls, try to avoid leaping. Also, give careful thought to the age at which you begin any serious exercise with your dog. Young dogs need a wide variety of exercises to maximize neural and musculoskeletal development, but it is important to avoid excessive exercise, strenuous exercise, or too much twisting or jumping until their growth plates are closed and their systems are adequately developed to handle these stresses.  If you are not sure, talk to a knowledgeable veterinary physical therapist who can evaluate your individual animal. In adult dogs, it is also important to strive for balance and not overdo any particular exercise, particularly exercises like jumping or weaving. This is a fine line–you want to do enough of an activity that the body adapts, strengthens, and grows, but not so much that the body is constantly stressed and breaks down over time. This is particularly true in sports like agility where people tend to believe that the dog is getting adequate exercise from doing the activity, but in truth the activity does very little to exercise the dog and is almost entirely physically harmful–you need to exercise your dog so they can safely do agility, not imagine that agility is exercising your dog…

2. Diversity—arguably the greatest path to overall fitness is a wide variety of exercise type and intensity. The vast majority of any dog’s exercise program consists of some form of running, so vary the speed, duration, and type of running as much as possible. Vary the substrate, use weights, have them pull, etc. Incorporate non-running as much as possible—swimming, tug of war, bitework, dock diving, wrestling with you or another dog, etc. Be creative.

3. Periodization—whatever exercise regime you utilize, your dog’s body will soon become accustomed, and progress will slow. By altering the primary mode and intensity, you can prevent this plateau. At least every six weeks make a significant change to the routine. This will also reduce boredom…

4. Fartlek—the body tends to respond very well to brief periods of varied intensity. In the middle of a CV workout include periods of near-maximal intensity. Then return to CV pace. This is also effective in decreasing fat—work the body at a steady load for around 20 minutes, then increase the workload and suddenly the body is required to metabolize lots of fat to meet the demand. Also, acceleration requires roughly triple the energy of sustaining top speed, so incorporate repeated acceleration.

5. Sport specific training—whatever sports you pursue, incorporate them in your program. If conformation, make sure that you spend time trotting. There is no better rehearsal for a particular activity than that activity. However, keep in mind the old adage, “We perform the way we train” and avoid sport specific training when your dog is tired or flat. Perform this aspect at the beginning of a workout so that your dog rehearses perfection and intensity.

6. Proprioception—every aspect of canine performance and injury resistance benefits from adequately exercising all the small supportive components of a dog’s body, and by simultaneously recruiting the neural processes to use these components. Do exercises that will engage balancing and supporting muscles. Run on awkward slopes, run over complex terrain, run in water of various depths, swim in current or waves, carry a backpack with an unbalanced load, leg weights, wobble board, log spin, etc. Stand on one bank of a creek, 30 feet uphill from the creek, throw a ball across the creek up the opposite side, and watch with awe how many different exercises your dog does on the way across–downhill sprint, jump over logs, run through shallow water over complex rocks, leap into deeper water, swim, pull out of water on other side, run uphill, turn around, repeat…

7. Shocking—similar to periodization, but on a smaller scale. Any time the body is asked to do something different, it tends to respond with adaptation, so if you can safely “shock” your dog’s body, growth will likely occur. Suddenly increase intensity or duration, pre-fatigue with a related activity, stop for a swim on your way home, etc. Of course, anything too shocking will result in injury, so exercise caution…

8. Resistance—the sine qua non of building muscle, but rather difficult to incorporate into a canine program. Sprinting up sand dunes, pulling weight, tugging a log, retrieving a heavy object, etc. The goal here is that muscle “failure” occurs fairly quickly and the muscles respond by growing. Be mindful of overworking. Lactic acid can cause soreness, and also real damage to muscle. In the most extreme cases, exertional rhabdomyolysis can be fatal. So increase workload gradually and observe carefully.

9. CV—3-4 times per week of thirty minutes of moderate intensity work. I use the same basic test as for humans—breathing hard enough that they could talk but not sing. For my dogs this is panting, but not too rapidly. Fetch is probably the most common CV training, either on land or in water.  Leash walking is rarely brisk enough to accomplish this goal.

10. LSD—a huge portion of the exercise any dog gets is aerobic—their breathing is only slightly elevated and they are not in oxygen debt. However, it is very difficult for us to really stress a dog’s system at this workload. Most dogs can trot at around 6 mph for many, many hours. Anything you can do that is truly LSD for a dog will tend to be somewhat hard on joints, and generally requires a mountain bike, ATV, or horse in addition to a 30 mile dirt trail… The primary advantage of LSD is the creation of an aerobic “base”, and the fact that once excess food is depleted the canine body burns primarily fat at these low levels.

11. Observation—this is the cornerstone of any canine exercise program. They cannot tell us if they are sore, or if they are hardly winded, or if they are having an off day. It is up to us to watch every workout and gather all the data we need to plan the next session. We need to observe everything their bodies are telling us, and occasionally check pulse, pulse recovery, pulse oximetry, etc. Between exercising, we need to observe hydration, urine output and color, soreness, etc.

12. Over-exercising—I would avoid too many miles on hard surfaces, I would avoid too many hours of the same motion, I would avoid boredom, limit jumping, etc. Pay particular attention to this issue if you participate in a sport like agility, disc-dog, or flyball where the activity itself is hard on your dog’s body.

13. Nutrition—obviously optimal fitness cannot be achieved without optimal nutrition. Consider what you are feeding, and when you are feeding relative to muscle exercise.

14. Rest—many of the benefits of exercise occur in the period between exercise when the body is recovering. Any fitness program must include adequate rest. The ratio of rest to work depends on many variables, including overall fitness level and intensity of work. For most of my dogs, three to five days of high intensity exercise out of seven seems optimal, with the other days being “active rest” days with low intensity exercise. Then I usually give them a week off from all high intensity work every six weeks. I tend to vary the frequency of exercise to avoid mental or physical routine—sometimes they exercise 5 days in a row, other weeks they exercise every other day, etc. And usually one day out of every ten has no exercise. After periods of rest, avoid too large an increase in intensity when you resume training. Since your ‘fresh’ dog may tend to overwork.

Of course, all this should be fun! Have a blast exercising your dog, observe the results, and continually modify the program to achieve your goals…

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 December 30, 2008  Posted by at 8:05 pm Tagged with: , , , , ,
Dec 302008
 

The cornerstone of good health is good nutrition. The “debate” concerning what represents optimum nutrition is passionate and ongoing.  On the one hand are people who see huge risks to home prepared diets– primarily these risks are nutritional imbalance, and disease from uncooked meats.  On the other hand are people who perceive a value in whole, live, raw foods, and believe these benefits are well worth the risks. 

 At Talented Animals we prepare fresh food for our dogs.   We believe many of the big name dog food companies are making a profit at the expense of our dogs’ health. We have home cooked since 1990 and have seen wonderful health and vitality in our dogs during that time. In addition to many years and many dogs fed our diet, Lauren is currently pursuing an MS in canine immunology and physiology, so the information herein is very current.

Home preparing diets is not something we casually recommend.  Unless you take the time to educate yourself it is very easy to overlook essential nutrients or to provide nutrients in an inappropriate ratio. We believe this diet can be far superior to a store bought feed, but it is extremely important to ensure balance.  If you cannot do this, feed a quality dog food!

Unless you are genuinely interested in taking the time to learn about nutrition, we recommend a quality dog food with a few supplements.  Reasonably good foods can be found such as California Natural, Pinnacle, Innova, Evo, FarMore, etc. Whole Dog Journal lists the best foods they could find each year, and generally their list is excellent.

If you are going to home prepare, please learn everything you can!  There is lots of good information available on the subject!  One thing to be careful of is that home preparing has recently become something of a fad and instant experts have popped up everywhere.  Some of them have excellent information, but be sure to read a wide cross section of opinions and then REACH YOUR OWN CONCLUSIONS! There is no one right diet.  Each dog in each situation has different requirements.  Learn to look at your dog and read the telltale signs of health.

One of the challenges in pursuing a healthy lifestyle for your dogs lies in balancing their “natural” needs with the fact that they are no longer in a pristine environment.  So merely mimicking a natural canid diet is not going to be ideal for a dog that rides around in your car, sits in front of the TV, drinks chlorinated water, etc.  However, looking at the natural state of our dogs progenitors certainly provides essential clues to what their bodies are designed for.

What we Feed–

This is a question we are asked often, but are always a little nervous answering.  What we feed may not be right for a particular dog.  You need to read and learn and then watch your dog!  

We generally feed our dogs twice a day.  A morning meal of vegetable/fruit mix with one of the following likely added: egg, mackeral, kefir, honey, etc. The evening meal is predominately meat or meaty bones.  Each meal has supplements.

We fast for 24 hours once a week.  We perform a chem. screen on each dog at least once a year and compare the results to try and identify any problems.  This also helps to establish baselines which will be very useful if diagnosis is ever necessary.  Commonly, dogs fed a meat based diet have a different normal baseline than the references provided by the veterinarian or the diagnostic lab. The normal reference range provided by them have been developed using dogs on a cereal/grain based diet.

A typical diet consists of 65-80% meats, 10-15% fruits/veggies, 5-10% organ meats and a very small percentage of grains and supplements.

Staple Foods

  • Meats– canids are carnivores.  Everything from their dentition to their gut is designed for an intake that is predominantly meat.  Depending on the breed, and what was available where they originated, this may have meant cow, deer, mouse, lamb, bird, fish, etc.  We try to feed a wide variety of many meats. Typically, we feed chicken wings/necks/backs, or whole turkey necks, beef and lamb. We feed whole chickens and sometimes beef tripe and fat.  We avoid salmon because the rickettsial that causes salmon poisoning is very difficult to kill.  We avoid pork due to trichinosis. 
  • Vegetables– very wide variety.  Lots of leafy greens.  No onions or tomatoes. Generally, juiced, lightly steamed or ground.  The canine digestive system does not have the enzymes required to break down cellulose, so unless some pre-digestion occurs, most vegetables pass through undigested.
  • Fruits– wide variety of fresh fruits. (Avoid grapes, raisins and use little citrus)
  • Eggs– whole raw/cooked eggs are an excellent source of protein.  Fed in large amounts they can deplete biotin, so do not go overboard!
  • Soy– tofu, tempeh, soy milk, sparingly
  • Dairy– cottage cheese, yogurt, kefir, raw goat milk, occasionally heavy cream if trying to add weight

Supplements added as needed–

  • Essential Fatty Acids– Omega 3 and Omega 6 are both required.  They are essential for healthy skin and coat.  Their ratio is important.
  • Fish oil
  • Enzymes
  • Borage oil
  • Evening primrose oil
  • Vitamin E
  • Cod liver oil
  • Flax seed oil
  • Kelp
  • Bee Pollen
  • Ginseng
  • Ginkgo
  • Molasses
  • Spirulina or SBGA
  • A multi-vitamin
  • Garlic
  • Bone Meal
  • Vitamin C
  • Glucosamine/Chondroitin
  • Vitamin B Complex
  • Fresh herbs that are in season
  • Honey
  • Aloe Vera
  • Kefir
  • Apple Cider Vinegar

Raw or Cooked?  As a rule, we feed meat and bones raw, vegetable lightly cooked or juiced raw.  This is not without risk! There are certainly diseases that can be present in raw meat that are killed by exposure to high temperatures. 

The Bone Controversy– there are two passionate camps regarding bones for dogs.  One camp says bones are very dangerous.  They can splinter and tear the digestive tract.  This certainly can happen and dogs have died of this.  The other camp argues that bones are a natural dog food that provides calcium and keeps teeth clean.  Our view is somewhere in between.  We feed knuckle bones regularly– these are the large soft bones that tend to crumble rather than splinter.  Even with knuckle bones there is some risk.  They could splinter or carry disease since they are uncooked.  This is a risk we are willing to accept because we believe our dogs are far healthier than they would be if we fed them no bones and no raw meat.

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 December 30, 2008  Posted by at 8:03 pm Tagged with: , , , , , ,
Dec 302008
 

One of the first and most critical decisions that needs to be made by any dog owner is what vaccination protocol to utilize.  There are many conflicting opinions on this matter, and I would encourage you to peruse them all. Whatever plan you select will have a significant impact on the lifelong health of your animal, and the decision should be based on rational thought and current available information, not fear, superstition, or unfounded assertion by companies or people with agendas other than your animal’s health. Of course you should discuss your vaccine thoughts with a trusted veterinarian before reaching any decisions, but do not assume that your vet knows the one right answer.  In the page below I summarize our thoughts on the question…

Background Information

From 1796 to 1976, vaccination was one of the greatest areas of medical and veterinary advancement.  During that time, hog cholera and smallpox were virtually eradicated, and a plethora of other diseases went from epidemic killers to infrequent curiosities.  By 1980, there were vaccines available for most common canine diseases, and the veterinary community had developed an abiding sense that vaccines were a harmless panacea that could be used to prevent almost every infectious disease in dogs.  Since there was no apparent downside, vaccines were given early and often.  Since maternal antibodies might interfere with vaccination, repeated administration was recommended, and since duration was unknown, annual revaccination was universally endorsed.

The dog community embraced this revolution, and frequent vaccination became a hallmark of responsible care.  “Up to date” on shots became a baseline expectation for care, and many pet owners happily vaccinated their dogs every year.

In the early eighties, several researchers independently observed a possible correlation between vaccination and several ailments and began studying this connection.  Over the following 25 years, a huge number of vaccine related ailments were posited, and study after study suggested that vaccination was causing a real degradation in overall canine health as well as possibly inducing several acute ailments.  It quickly became clear that for all their benefits, vaccines posed an overall health risk and a balance needed to be found.  Vaccines were significantly implicated in:

  • Allergies
  • Autoimmune diseases
  • Leukemia
  • Thyroid disease
  • Addison’s disease
  • Grave’s disease
  • Injection site sarcoma
  • Diabetes
  • Lupus
  • Thrombocytopenia
  • Organ failure
  • Skin inflammation
  • Encephalitis
  • Lymphoma
  • Behavioral changes and phobias
  • Autoimmune hemolytic anemia
  • Arthritis
  • Epilepsy

At the same time, researchers began studying the duration of various vaccines and questioning the notion of annual revaccination.  Time and again their studies suggested that vaccine duration was far longer than previously believed, and in many cases appeared to last for the animal’s lifetime.

Situation Today

At present, there is no absolute consensus concerning an ideal vaccination protocol for dogs. Each owner must make their best informed decision. However, in the past few years, virtually every veterinary university in North America and the AVMA have revised their policies and issued statements on vaccines to accommodate the evidence that they pose serious health risks which are not yet fully understood.  This difficulty is exacerbated by the fact that many veterinarians are not providing good advice–their schooling came before or during the current upheaval, and they have not been motivated or inclined to stay current.   Unfortunately, many vets are simply repeating past beliefs and continuing to advocate for multiple puppy vaccinations with annual revaccination, ignoring the last few decades of research.  This is habitual and comfortable for them, and allows them to hide behind the veil of “manufacturers recommendations” when they advise vaccination protocols which clearly are not supported by current research. It has several ancillary consequences:

· It ensures that dogs are brought in to the vet at least once a year.  This is often a good thing.  Many owners are unobservant and their dogs may have unnoticed problems that need medical attention.

· It allows veterinarians to earn a living.  A substantial portion of most veterinarians income derives from these annual visits.

Unfortunately it is not what is best for most dogs.

As explained in Current Veterinary Therapy XI (Ron Schultz, Ph.D., and Tom Phillips, DVM):

“A practice that was started many years ago and that lacks scientific validity or verification is annual revaccinations. Almost without exception there is no immunologic requirement for annual revaccination. Immunity to viruses persists for years or for the life of the animal. Successful vaccination to most bacterial pathogens produces an immunologic memory that remains for years, allowing an animal to develop a protective anamnestic (secondary) response when exposed to virulent organisms. Only the immune response to toxins requires boosters (e.g. tetanus toxin booster, in humans, is recommended once every 7-10 years), and no toxin vaccines are currently used for dogs and cats. Furthermore, revaccination with most viral vaccines fails to stimulate an anamnestic (secondary) response as a result of interference by existing antibody (similar to maternal antibody interference). The practice of annual vaccination in our opinion should be considered of questionable efficacy unless it is used as a mechanism to provide an annual physical examination or is required by law (i.e., certain states require annual revaccination for rabies).”

or as stated by Christine Chambreau, DVM:

“Routine vaccinations are probably the worst thing we do for our animals. They cause all types of illnesses but not directly to where we would relate them definitely to be caused by the vaccine.”

There is still much to learn about canine immunology and vaccination, and I am confident that we will be doing a far better job in 20 years than we are today, but what we know today already allows us to do a far better job than simply reiterating the advice of 25 years ago…

What Should a Concerned Dog Owner Do?

There is no single correct answer to which vaccinations to give your dog and how often: make the best informed decision you can make given the current information and the details of your situation.  Talk to trusted experts, read current research, consider your dog’s health and circumstances, and weigh the risks of not vaccinating against each disease against the benefits. Do not trust me, or your friend, or even your vet to have the right answer because there is no right answer.  There is only the best answer for you.

Regardless of what you decide to do about vaccinations, we should all agree that the single best thing we can do to prevent disease in our dogs is to create healthy dogs with robust immune systems.  Breeders need to be breeding with this in mind, but each of us can take monumental steps for our dogs:

  • Diet
  • Exercise
  • Weight
  • Lifestyle–it has been demonstrated time and again that happy, low stressed individuals are less likely to succumb to illness.  So keep your dog’s life happy and low stress.
  • Environmental toxins–it is genuinely frightening to consider the nearly constant exposure our dogs face to environmental pesticides, herbicides, paints, vehicular poisons, chlorine, secondhand smoke, etc.  All of these tax their immune systems.  Do anything and everything you can to reduce exposure to toxins.

Enough Theory Already–what vaccines do you give?

As far as which vaccines to administer today, begin by understanding that you cannot protect your dog against all disease, and if you try, you will do genuine harm. No question–we should continue to use vaccines to avoid serious disease in our dogs.  Also no question at this point that over using vaccines adds no value and significantly degrades health.

In my opinion, based on what we know today, there are three medically warranted inoculations in the lifetime of a dog:

  1. successfully seroconverted rabies
  2. successfully seroconverted distemper
  3. successfully seroconverted parvovirus

To accomplish these three and ensure maximal health is relatively simple:  Titer-test for maternal antibody depletion if desired, and administer a single vaccine for distemper or parvo.  Wait ten days and titer test for seroconversion. If conversion has been achieved (a positive titer test), wait four more days, so a total of at least 14 days has elapsed and repeat the process for the other disease. Then repeat each of these 6 months later at the same 14 day interval (to stimulate a secondary immune response after the immune system was primed and thereby achieve maximal protection) and you have a dog with likely lifetime immunity against parvo and distemper. (There is a real question as to which disease you should do first.  Parvo is the greater risk, but maternal antibodies for parvo tend to significantly outlast maternal antibodies for distemper. Personally I do distemper first because the window is open sooner.)  Rabies is a particularly challenging disease to address.  In my experience, it is one of the most harmful vaccines, and I have observed several cases in which behavioral changes after this vaccine were marked.  This is purely anecdotal, but was absolutely unmistakable in my opinion–animals that had never before shown any aggression suddenly becoming markedly less tolerant and more pugnacious.  On the other hand, rabies is a horrific disease that is virtually always lethal and is zoonotic.  The rabies vaccine has saved millions of lives, and rabies is not a disease we should ever take lightly.  Furthermore, rabies vaccinations are legally required on a fixed schedule in most places, so until the law changes there will be few legal options, despite the likelihood that rabies immunity is lifelong and the fact that rabies is a fairly rare disease in most areas. At present, those are the only three vaccines we give.

Depending on your environment, your risk tolerance, and your general world view, you might select to give fewer vaccines (distemper is rare, and parvo is usually treatable successfully these days) or you might decide to give more. I believe that ANY vaccinations beyond the above should be carefully examined and justified in a particular case. The “other” diseases commonly vaccinated against in the US are either so rare or so insignificant in terms of risk as to be irrelevant in my opinion. Vaccinating against them seems to risk a dogs health far more than it protects. These diseases include:

  • Hepatitis / Canine Adenovirus II–there have been few, if any, documented cases in the US in approximately 20 years.
  • Parainfluenza, Bordatella, CAV I–these three diseases are almost always trivial. Furthermore, in my experience, despite repeated exposure, none of my unvaccinated dogs have ever shown any symptoms, while many of the vaccinated dogs around them have coughed for weeks. These disease are similar to getting a cold, and in my opinion the risks far outweigh the benefits of these illnesses.
  • Leptospirosis–most common cause of immediate negative vaccine reactions, and is effective only against some strains (estimates range from 20%–70% efficacy). This vaccine does not last long, and can prevent symptoms while allowing the dog to transmit the disease.  Leptospirosis is a serious disease, and can be deadly, although many cases can be treated successfully. Lepto is fairly common in wildlife populations, so this vaccination warrants consideration and discussion based on your lifestyle and locale.
  • Corona–even in a laboratory where dogs are intentionally exposed to corona, there are virtually never symptoms exhibited.
  • Lyme–vaccine causes the same symptoms it is supposed to prevent.
  • Giardia–is generally symptomatic only briefly if at all in otherwise healthy animals, and is easily cured.

Whatever vaccines you decide to administer, there is very little reason to give them simultaneously.  Common multi-antigen vaccinations are unquestionably hard on an animals immune system.  Try never to attack your dog’s immune system in more than one way at a time.  If you have administered an antigen, do not administer another.  And do not simultaneously administer topical or internal insecticides including flea or tick preventatives, wormers, heartworm preventatives, etc.  Let your dog’s immune system focus on one thing at a time.

Social Pressure

Many people still believe that any dog who has not been annually vaccinated is being neglected.  Humane societies, vets, pharmaceutical companies, obedience schools, and daycares all perpetuate this myth.  They continue harming their dogs with excessive vaccinations and believe that anyone not doing the same is taking a needless risk.  Furthermore, many of them have an incorrect understanding of immunology and believe that a less-vaccinated dog poses an environmental risk to other dogs.  This is erroneous–even if your dog were unvaccinated, he is no likelier to be carrying the disease than any other dog, and in fact is less likely to be shedding disease or to be an asymptomatic carrier.  However, many of these institutions will not allow your dog unless you have proof of numerous unnecessary vaccinations.  I have no real solution to offer except to attempt to educate these people or take your business elsewhere.

Immune Memory

There seems to be considerable confusion among dog owners about how immune memory works, so here is a brief overview: At present very little science supports the notion that memory cells “forget,” and there is a huge and growing body of data indicating that they do not, so there is little rational justification for repeating shots throughout adulthood, and there is considerable evidence that doing so compromises overall health.  Most people are simply scared, uninformed, willing to sacrifice canine health to possibly protect human health, and require “proof” that a dog could not lose immunity over time before they would significantly reduce the revaccination requirement.  Alas, proving that something could not happen is virtually impossible, but try to find a vet who has seen a case of parvo in an adult dog that was ever successfully vaccinated, even among rural populations that tend to not do any adult veterinary care–it simply does not happen.

That immune memory is long lived has been empirically recognized since Ancient Greece when it was observed that once a person had a particular disease in childhood they would likely never have that particular disease again. However, the most commonly quoted seminal moment of truth came in 1847 when a measles epidemic on the Faroe Islands infected virtually every inhabitant of the island, except for those people who were old enough to have lived through the last measles outbreak 65 years earlier.  This was extremely interesting because it was clear from the universality of infection that there had been absolutely no measles present on the island otherwise some of the inhabitants would have gotten ill and become immune. It was therefore demonstrative that the older residents had maintained immunity without any boosters, and without ANY external measles exposure for 65 years. This same “experiment” was repeated on several isolated islands and in numerous labs. From then on, it has been widely accepted by immunologists that immunity, once achieved, is in most cases extremely long lived and likely permanent.

While it is clear that immunity is generally long lived, it is less clear how… There are several ways in which the immune system maintains memory, and there remains some uncertainty how they work together to maintain immunity for such long periods.  Furthermore, any discussion of immunity is complicated by the fact that some diseases behave differently then most others. For example, T-cell independent antigens do not yield immune memory at all.  So there are many exceptions and plenty of room for confusion.

However, since canine immune memory for distempter, parvo, and rabies behaves similarly, we can avoid discussing the exceptions for practical purposes of canine vaccine decisions.  Throughout most of a dog’s body there exists a network of specialized cells whose purpose is to capture and process antigens.  These are called dendritic cells.  A subset of these cells, follicular dendritic cells, store antigen/antibody complexes called iccosomes for each antigen the dog has previously encountered either through exposure or vaccination which they present to B-cells periodically.  The B-cells then present peptides to T-cells to “refresh” their memory. (It is interesting to note that antigen that has been thus processed is extremely potent in stimulating T-cells, around 10,000 times more efficient than unprocessed antigen) It is not fully understood how often or why this refreshing occurs, but if you take the T or B cells out of one rat and put them in another rat who has been irradiated to ensure no immunity, the B and T-cells will confer immunity for less then a month, so we can be fairly certain it is the action of the follicular dendritic cells that prolongs immune memory to last for many decades. Furthermore, we are fairly certain that the antigen complexes can persist indefinitely in the dendritic cells, forming new external iccosomes as needed, so it is generally believed that this is the process which confers lifetime immunity to these diseases.

Titers

Many people have begun using titers as a tool for their dogs; unfortunately, there seems to be fairly widespread misunderstanding of what titers mean. Higher titer do not indicate superior immunity.  A titer measures level of current antibodies, so a low titer does NOT mean low immunity because if the animal was previously immune but has not recently been challenged it could have a low or nonexistent titer, and any positive titer indicates the existence of antibodies from which you can deduce the presence of memory cells. I hate to imagine people revaccinating because of a low or nonexistent titer, but unfortunately when I hear of people annually or frequently re-titering I suspect that is precisely what they are erroneously thinking.  Antibodies die in the absence of challenge. Immune memory generally does not. Titers go down when antibodies go down and say NOTHING about memory.  If you have a dog that has been successfully vaccinated for parvo, next time he has a low titer for parvo, take him somewhere you know parvo has recently been, then re-titer him–titers will magically have gone way up because memory cells, as their name implies, exist to remember and will produce antibodies as needed.

More information

If you want to learn about the current status of vaccination knowledge, I strongly suggest reading the works of:

Ronald D. Schultz, Richard B. Ford, Jean Dodds, Duval, Glickman, Frick and Brooks, FW Scott, Dennis Macy, Leland Carmichael, Richard Pitcairn

A few good sites on vaccination:

www.caberfeidh.com/PuppyVax.htm

www.itsfortheanimals.com/Adobe/AdverseVaccReactions.pdf

www.caberfeidh.com/Revax.htm

AVMA Council on Biologic and Therapeutic Agents’ report on cat and dog vaccines

www.altvetmed.org/articles/vaccinations.html

www.wellpet.org/vaccines/dodds-schedule.htm

www.animalwellnessmagazine.com/m/m86/main.htm

Purdue Vaccine Study

Considerations in Designing Effective and Safe Vaccination Programs for Dogs

www.holisticat.com/vaccinations.html

www.vmth.ucdavis.edu/vmth/clientinfo/info/genmed/vaccinproto.html

www.austinholistic.com/articles/FW001.html

www.britfeld.com/vaccination-adverse.htm

www.dogsadversereactions.com/vaccines.html

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 December 30, 2008  Posted by at 7:45 pm Tagged with: , , , , , , ,